This is one of the hardest stages on the French Way — and one of the most unforgettable. Come prepared, physically and mentally: the climbing is relentless, and every hard-won meter of altitude brings the views into sharper relief.

The stage begins at the Porte d’Espagne 0.0 km, following the D-428 road marked “Route de Napoléon”. This road traces the ancient Via Aquitania, the Roman road connecting the ancient Roman cities of Burdigala (nowadays Bordeaux, in France) and Asturica Augusta (Astorga, in Spain) through the Pyrenees. The first section climbs steadily to Hountto / Hunto 4.8 km, at 498 m, home to the Ferme Ithurburia hostel.

Fill up at the fountain on the way out of the village — it’s the last reliable water for a while. Shortly after, the Camino forks off onto a rough dirt track that winds up through the hillside; both routes reach the same point, but a second fork further on is worth noting: stay on the road there. Taking the dirt track adds unnecessary climbing and ends with a sharp descent into the Orisson refuge 7.2 km. Orisson (792 m) has been a pilgrim stop since the Middle Ages, when a hospital stood here to serve travelers on what was then a genuinely dangerous crossing. Today it’s a well-run refuge kept going by its hospitalier, Jean-Jacques, and the contributions of the pilgrims who sleep here.

Leaving Orisson, the gradient eases slightly as the route climbs through open mountain terrain, with the Arnéguy / Arnegi valley to the right and the Estérençuby / Ezterenzubi valley to the left. The views are already impressive. About 1 km from Orisson, the Borda hostel 8.2 km marks the last services until Roncesvalles — nice place to stock up on food and water.

After another 3 km of climbing, a white statue appears on a rocky hilltop (1,095 m) just off the path: the Virgin of Biakorri 10.9 km, keeping watch over the western Pyrenees from her pedestal roughly halfway between Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and Roncesvalles. Many pilgrims stop here to rest, to reflect, or simply to take in the extraordinary views opening out in every direction.

The Camino continues parallel to the road through high meadows and the remains of the old path, reaching the Urdanarre Calvary 14.5 km — also known in France as the Croix Thibaut, or Cross of Theobald — another traditional gathering point for votive offerings. Here the route leaves the road D-428 for good, taking the dirt track to the right in continued ascent.

About 1.5 km from Urdanarre, the path reaches 1,337 m at the Bentartea pass 16.3 km. Here you’ll find the so-called Fountain of Roland, installed in reference to the Chanson de Roland — the medieval epic poem that places a great battle somewhere near these passes. Charlemagne’s army, ambushed while retreating from Zaragoza: Basques or Saracens, depending on the version, medieval propaganda being what it was. What’s certain is that armies crossed here, that people died here, and that you are now doing it with trekking poles and a weather app. The mountain doesn’t care about the difference.

The path continues through dense beech forest alongside the wire fence marking the Spanish-French border, reaching the stone milestone at the entrance to Navarre and then the Lepoeder pass 20.0 km — at 1,429 m, the highest point on the entire French Way.

By the time you reach Lepoeder, you’ll have climbed 1,257 m from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. In clear weather, the summit fully earns its Basque name — “beautiful hill” — with Roncesvalles / Orreaga visible just 4 km below and the full magnificence of the western Pyrenees spread out around you.

From Lepoeder, two routes lead down to Roncesvalles: straight on through the beech forest of Basajaunberro (a steep 500 m descent), or a right turn towards the Ibañeta pass and the road.

Through the beech forest of Basajaunberro

Follow the white and red GR markers carefully — it’s easy to lose the path in this dense forest, especially in fog. The slopes are steep and the ground slippery; this is where trekking poles earn their keep. The 4 km of descent brings you directly into Roncesvalles / Orreaga 24.0 km, entering the village from the east.

Through the Ibañeta pass

The safer option, and only 400 meters longer. From Lepoeder, turn right onto the NA-2033 and follow it for just over 2.5 km to the Ibañeta pass 22.5 km, where pilgrims arriving via the Valcarlos route join the trail.

From there the Camino runs close to but off the road for another 2 km, entering the village of Roncesvalles / Orreaga from the north 24.4 km and leaving you beside the great stone mass of the collegiate church. The first walls you see are actually those of the pilgrims’ hostel — walk around the back of both to reach the N-135 and the heart of Roncesvalles.